I like spending money. I like new things. Shoot, I like spending money on newer versions of things I already own. A new pack or ultra light synthetic-fill coat or a wicking t-shirt; I’ll consider throwing money at those things all day long. I’ve been known to buy a new knife or mini flashlight or hat when the ones I haven’t seen their first half-life. I am an American; I spend money on things I don’t need.
However, there is a line, there are things I won’t buy. There are things that would be great to have and in fact, if someone were to give to me, I would use on every adventure. For instance, I would love one of those new GPS, weather forecasting, espresso making watches. (I like spending money on coffee too.) I’m having trouble pulling the trigger on a new mountain bike since mine still gets me from A to B. I could use a new 3-season tent. My Walrus two-person has served me well but weighs more and is probably less effective than a younger model might prove.
I can’t, I won’t, bring myself to fork over $300 or $400 for one of the new super high-efficient and well-branded ice chests. You've seen the lite-brown colored coolers in the higher-end sports equipment stores. I have read that they are now offering a rainbow of team colors for tailgating.
I’m not buying one.
If, however, a dark green, hyper-efficient, grizzly bear proof ice chest appeared in the back of my SUV I would promptly fill it with beer and ice. But, until that happens I will do without.
This reluctance to spend money on a “uber chest” does not mean that I don’t long for something that will perform similarly. I truly need something that will keep food and drinks cold for a long time. I often go on weekend-long kayaking trips in the heat of the Oklahoma summer. Hydration and libation are required for these trips and I don’t like warm Gatorade or Shiner Bock. So, what is a stingy handy-man adventurer to do?
I figured I would retro-fit my cheap Igloo brand ice chest via a do-it-yourself project. The secret to a better ice chest is just more insulation and I figured I could bubble wrap or figure out some way to improve the performance of my $22 ice chest that already fits perfectly in my kayak.
Just one question - How?
I like do-it-yourself projects. Making my own stuff is kinda fun and saves money. I’ve made my own mosquito netting for hammock camping and I make a lot of stuff for the garden. I’ve made a portable artifact screen for hunting arrowheads. I enjoy making things from the scraps in my garage.
You wouldn’t believe the number of how-to, do-it-yourself videos are on the Google. It didn’t take long for me to find a couple of great ideas that I thought I could steal from. One was a icebox table for car camping. The table is a rather extravagant insulated table for your ice chest and can be built with removable legs. It is a cool (ha ha) idea if you are driving a big truck to your campsite, and is basically an insulated tub for your ice chest. Slide your large, store brand ice chest into the table cavity and the built-in insulation not only improves the efficiency of your cooler, it is now on legs for easier access to those cold drinks at the bottom of the cooler.
This would not work for me.
Another idea was super cheap, if not a temporary solution. A cardboard box that is larger by about 4 inches on all sides of your ice chest. Line the cardboard box with styrofoam insulation and place the ice chest in this insulated box. Now, your items will stay frozen for a cross-country trip.
I don’t think this oversized disposable solution works for me either.
I wanted a solution that would allow me to boat in the summer sun or keep the chest in the back of my SUV during a hot August weekend. I wanted an inexpensive yet reusable solution. So, I cherry-picked from a couple of videos that created the extra insulation on the INSIDE of the chest. Genius!
All I needed was an Exacto blade, rubber cement and a single sheet of 3/4 inch styrofoam board (enough for three or four retro-fits). The 3/4 inch blue board has an R value of 5 and is used in housing construction. The inexpensive ice chests are manufactured with R5.
Starting with the bottom of the ice chest, I measured the dimensions and cut the blue board to fit nice and snug. Then I proceeded around the four walls until I had five pieces of an insert. They all fit together nice and tight and I could have just left them in place or glued them to the walls. But I wanted to make an insert that could be removed for those times when I don’t need the super efficiency. So I rubber cemented the seams and let it dry. Then I carefully slid it out of the ice chest and reinforced the insert with duct tape. Now, when I need the extra insulation I just slide the blue insert into place and remove after use for drying. No mold or mildew!
One thing to remember is that the lid of the less expensive ice chests is generally the least insulated part of the chest; so I measured a form fitting piece of insulation and glued it to the top. Now when the insert is in place and I close the door, the top piece fits into the insert for a perfect fit. An ice chest within an ice chest!
A good friend spent the money on one of those expensive ice chests and is very happy with it. He can lock it with a pad lock and it came with a bottle opener. It is super nice and looks great in his kayak or truck. And he keeps me from drinking his beer via that pad lock.
I took my retro “Big Foot” ice chest on a trip last year and found it performed on par with his expensive model. In fact, I had to take my drinks out of the ice chest so they could convert from solid ice to liquid form for drinking! Well, that’s what I remember happening.
The high-end ice chests boast an R12 or better and can keep ice from melting for 10 days. I never require that kind of performance. But if I do need that kind of action some day I will find a cardboard box and a few towels.